Cannabinoids in skincare: how do they work on the skin?

Cannabinoids in skincare are hemp compounds, mostly CBD, added to creams, balms and serums because skin cells carry cannabinoid receptors. Lab studies show that CBD can affect oil production and inflammation signals in skin cells. Human trials are still few and small, so cosmetic claims rest mainly on laboratory work.

Prefer watching? This video covers the main points.

How do cannabinoids in skincare work?

They work through the skin's own endocannabinoid system. The body makes signalling lipids, such as anandamide, that bind to cannabinoid receptors. A 2009 review found this system in keratinocytes, hair follicles and sebaceous glands. Its job there seems to be keeping skin cell growth, maturation and immune responses in balance (Bíró et al., 2009). Other lipids made by the body, such as oleamide, also act on cannabinoid receptors in lab tests.

Plant cannabinoids can act on the same system. They also reach other targets in skin, such as TRPV ion channels and PPAR receptors (Martins et al., 2022). Read more in our guide to the endocannabinoid system.

What does the research on CBD and skin show?

Most of it comes from the lab. In cultured human sebocytes, the cells that make skin oil, CBD reduced oil production and cell growth and dampened inflammation signals (Oláh et al., 2014). Reviews describe antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and moisturising properties in cell and animal studies (Kuzumi et al., 2024).

Human evidence is thin. A 2024 review counted only a few clinical studies on CBD in the skin (Kuzumi et al., 2024). A systematic review of skin-applied CBD trials found eight usable studies, mostly small, with a high risk of bias and CBD mixed with other ingredients (Scholfield et al., 2023). So no one can yet say what a given CBD cream does for a given skin.

Tolerability data are more reassuring. In patch tests on healthy volunteers, several CBD formulations caused no irritation or sensitisation (Maghfour et al., 2021).

Which cannabinoids are used in skincare?

CBD is by far the most common. It is not intoxicating, and it is the cannabinoid with the most research behind it. Some products add CBG or other minor cannabinoids, which have been studied far less.

THC is a different case. In the UK, THC is a Class B drug, and a product that contains it is controlled unless it meets the "exempt product" definition (Home Office, 2024). Hemp seed oil, often listed as Cannabis sativa seed oil, contains little or no cannabinoids. It is a moisturising oil, not a source of CBD.

Does CBD get through the skin?

Some of it does. In a lab study on human skin, CBD passed through about ten times more easily than Δ8-THC, and adding ethanol increased the flow (Stinchcomb et al., 2004). How far it gets in an everyday cream depends on the formula: the carrier oils, the emulsion and the other ingredients.

That is why formulation matters as much as the CBD figure on the label. Cannabinoids break down with light, heat and air, so stable packaging and storage count too.

How do you choose a CBD skincare product?

Look for facts you can check:

• The label should state milligrams of CBD per pack, not just "hemp" or "cannabis".
• It should say whether the extract is isolate, broad spectrum or full spectrum. Our guide to full spectrum, broad spectrum and isolate explains the difference.
• A certificate of analysis should be available for the batch you buy. See how to read a certificate of analysis.
• An independent cosmetics standard, such as COSMOS, tells you how the ingredients were sourced and processed.

Be wary of creams sold with medical promises. A cosmetic may not make medical claims, and the research would not back them up yet.

You can see the range in our CBD creams and balms, and our CBD cream guide covers how to use them.